New or second-hand luxury watch: what is the best option?

This is a question that many people ask before their first purchase of a luxury watch. The natural intuition leans towards new — cleaner, more reassuring, with the manufacturer's warranty. But in the world of luxury watches, second-hand is not a compromise: it is often the smartest choice. Explanations.

The number 1 argument for second-hand: the price

A second-hand luxury watch of the same reference and in good condition costs on average 20 to 40% less than a new model bought in an official store. This difference can be explained simply: like a car, a watch loses part of its value as soon as it is "activated" at an official dealer. This initial depreciation is borne by the first buyer — not by you if you buy second-hand.

The number 2 argument: availability

For certain highly sought-after references, buying new is simply not possible within a reasonable timeframe. Waiting lists for a Rolex Submariner, a Daytona or a Patek Philippe Nautilus commonly exceed 3, 5, or even 10 years at official dealers.

The second-hand market allows immediate access to these watches, without maintaining a business relationship with a dealer, without buying "satellite" products in the hope of being "rewarded" with an allocation. You want a Submariner now — you buy it now.

The number 3 argument: resale value

Paradoxically, some second-hand luxury watches have a better resale value than new watches. Here’s why: if you buy a new watch for €8,000, it "is worth" immediately around €5,500 to €6,500 on the second-hand market. If you sell it 3 years later, you incur that loss.

If you buy the same second-hand watch for €5,500 and sell it 3 years later, you sell it for... €5,500 (or more if the market has improved). The initial depreciation has already been absorbed by the first buyer.

For highly sought-after references (Daytona, Nautilus, Royal Oak), the second-hand watch can even increase in value — which a new watch almost never does in the first few years.

What new offers that second-hand does not

Let’s be honest: new also has its real advantages.

The manufacturer’s warranty: a new watch is covered by the manufacturer’s warranty (generally 2 to 5 years depending on the brands). A second-hand watch may come with a seller’s warranty, but it is rarely as extensive.

The perfect condition: a new watch has never been worn, has never been subjected to shock, has never been polished. For some buyers, this "virgin" condition has significant sentimental value. It is still possible to find immaculate conditions on the second-hand market. For that, do not hesitate to conduct a personalised search.

The choice of customisation: some models are available in-store with customisation options (dial, strap) that the second-hand market cannot always replicate.

Our honest verdict

For the vast majority of buyers, the second-hand option is the best choice — provided you go through a serious professional seller who verifies the authenticity and condition of the watch.

New remains relevant in two specific cases: you want the full manufacturer’s warranty and a perfectly pristine condition, and you are buying a reference available without a waiting list. In all other cases — rare references, optimized budget, resale value — the second-hand option wins.

How to choose your second-hand seller?

This is where everything is at stake. The second-hand option is an excellent choice only if you go through a reliable professional who:

• Verifies the authenticity of each watch before sale
• Gives you an honest description of the condition (signs of wear, possible polishing)
• Can provide you with or help you obtain the documentation (box, papers, archive extract)
• Offers a minimum of recourse in case of problems after purchase

This is exactly what Répétition offers its clients. We send our watches throughout France, mainly to Metz, in the Grand Est, and to Luxembourg.

See our selection of second-hand watches Ask for advice from an expert