Luxury watch: the guide to start when you know nothing
You've seen a Rolex on a friend's wrist, you've heard about Patek Philippe on a podcast, or you're simply looking to treat yourself to something beautiful and durable. But with the brands, models, movements, prices that range from simple to tenfold, and the risks of counterfeiting, it's hard to know where to begin.
This guide is written for you — without technical jargon, without assuming that you already know what a watch complication is or why a Rolex costs more at auction than in a shop. We're starting from scratch.
First step: understand why luxury watches cost this much
A luxury watch is not expensive because it's a rich person's whim. It is expensive because it is made differently, with standards radically superior to an ordinary watch.
Specifically, a Rolex is hand-assembled by watchmakers trained for years, with components made in-house to precision tolerances close to those of the aerospace industry. The mechanical movement inside — called the "calibre" — is a miniature piece of engineering made up of several hundred components that fit into an area of a few square centimetres.
In addition, there are noble materials (high-quality steel, gold, platinum, scratch-resistant sapphire glass), extreme durability tests, and precision guarantees that ordinary watches cannot offer. The price reflects all of this — plus the reputation and history of the brand, which have their own value.
The big brands: a quick reference
You will often hear the same names. Here’s what to remember:
Rolex — The most well-known brand in the world. A symbol of success, robust and versatile watches, excellent second-hand market. It is often the first brand a beginner turns to, and it’s not a bad instinct.
Patek Philippe — The Geneva manufacturer considered by many to be the pinnacle of watchmaking. Rarer, more expensive, worn by passionate collectors. Not necessarily the best entry point for a first purchase.
Audemars Piguet — Known for the Royal Oak, an icon of luxury sports watches. Highly sought after, often difficult to find.
Omega — A historic brand (official watch of Apollo astronauts, James Bond's watch), excellent quality, prices more accessible than Rolex. A very good entry point.
Tudor — The sister brand of Rolex. Watches of similar quality, significantly lower prices. The ideal choice to start with the Rolex DNA without the Rolex price.
New or second-hand: what beginners need to know
Many beginners assume that a luxury watch must be bought new, in-store. This is a common misconception.
The second-hand luxury watch market is mature, professional, and often more interesting than new for several reasons: prices are lower (20 to 40% on average for many references), some highly sought-after watches are simply unavailable new, and a well-maintained second-hand watch can last for generations.
The essential condition: go through a professional seller who verifies authenticity. That’s exactly what Répétition does.
What budget should you plan for starting?
There is no mandatory minimum amount to enter the world of luxury watches, but here are some guidelines :
Less than €2,000 : the territory of serious quality watches but not yet "luxury" in the strict horological sense. Very beautiful watches exist here, but resale is less interesting.
Between €2,000 and €5,000 : Tudor, Omega, and some entry-level models from other serious manufacturers. A good starting budget.
Between €5,000 and €15,000 : the heart of the second-hand Rolex market. Datejust, Submariner, GMT-Master. Iconic watches with real resale value.
Above €15,000 : Rolex Daytona, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet. For a first purchase, it is better to first familiarise yourself with the market at a lower level.
Should one buy a second-hand Daytona as an investment ?
The question deserves a nuanced answer. The Daytona has indeed proven its ability to maintain and increase its value over a long period. But the second-hand watch market is cyclical and can experience corrections — 2022-2023 saw a notable drop in prices after the post-Covid peaks.
Buying a Daytona should first be a decision of pleasure — wearing an exceptional watch that you appreciate — and secondarily a wealth decision. It is in this order that the transaction makes the most sense.
Questions to ask before buying
Before even looking at models, three simple questions guide the choice well :
For what occasions? A watch worn every day at the office is not the same as one taken out for dinners or sports. Sports watches (Submariner, Royal Oak) are better suited for versatile daily use. Dress watches (Calatrava, Datejust) are more elegant but less versatile.
What size of case? Luxury watches generally vary between 36 mm and 44 mm in diameter. Slim wrists are better suited to cases of 36 to 40 mm.
With or without date? The small date window is practical for everyday use, but some purists prefer clean dials without a date. It’s a matter of personal taste.
How does Répétition support beginners?
At Répétition, we support both experienced collectors and those discovering the world of luxury watches. We take the time to understand your project before guiding you, and we will never sell you a watch that does not match what you are truly looking for.
We are based in Metz and operate throughout the Grand Est and Luxembourg, with remote operations or private appointments according to your preference.