How to read the value of a second-hand luxury watch and never get taken in
You want to buy or sell a second-hand luxury watch and you don't know if the price being offered is fair. It's one of the most uncomfortable situations in the secondary market: without a clear benchmark, it's difficult to negotiate or assess an offer. The good news: the tools to read market values are accessible to everyone, free, and simple to use once you understand their logic. Here's how to do it.
What is a "value" for a luxury watch?
The value of a second-hand luxury watch is its market value at a given moment — the price at which it is actually exchanged between serious buyers and sellers, neither inflated by an opportunistic seller nor undercut by a rushed seller.
This is different from the catalogue price (the new price in an official store), which can be very far from the reality of the secondary market — sometimes well below for sought-after watches like the Rolex Daytona, sometimes well above for less desirable watches.
The value fluctuates based on supply and demand, current watch news (discontinuation of a reference, release of a new model), and macroeconomic factors. It is not fixed — it evolves, sometimes rapidly.
The three reference sources for reading a value
1. Chrono24 — the global reference
Chrono24 (chrono24.fr) is the largest global marketplace for luxury watches. It lists tens of thousands of active listings at any given time, making it the most reliable source for reading real-time market prices.
How to use it correctly:
- Type the exact reference of the watch into the search bar (e.g.: "Rolex 126610LN" rather than "Rolex Submariner")
- Filter by condition (new, very good condition, good condition) to compare similar watches.
- Look at the range of available prices — not the lowest price (often a watch without papers or in poor condition) nor the highest (often a seller testing the market), but the median prices for watches in comparable condition.
The prices displayed on Chrono 24 should still be put into perspective as they include fees paid by sellers. A watch purchased directly will normally be less expensive.
2. WatchCharts — for historical price trends.
WatchCharts (watchcharts.com) is an analytical tool that aggregates actual sales data across multiple platforms and displays the price evolution of a reference over time — week by week, month by month.
This is useful for two things: knowing whether you are buying at the top or bottom of the cycle (a purchase during a correction is always better than a purchase at the peak), and assessing the potential future resale value of a watch.
These averages should be put into perspective as the actual prices of watches vary depending on the geographical area and their condition.
3. Auction results — for rare pieces.
For collectible watches, vintage pieces or rare complications, auction houses (Christie's, Sotheby's, Antiquorum, Phillips) publish their sales results. These results are the most reliable reference for exceptional pieces — but they concern a minority of watches.
The factors that affect the value of the same reference
Two Rolex Submariner of the same reference can sell for very different prices. Here’s why:
The presence of the box and papers: A Submariner with complete box and papers is worth on average 15 to 25% more than a Submariner without documentation. The papers certify the original purchase date and allow verification that the watch has not been stolen. The original box is less important for authentication but reassures buyers.
The general condition: The condition of a watch is assessed on the case and bracelet (scratches, dents, wear on the edges) and on the dial (marks, loose indices, scratched glass). A watch in "excellent condition" is worth 20 to 40% more than a watch in "good condition" of the same reference.
Polishing: A watch polished by a unscrupulous watchmaker has lost its original sharp edges — the clean angles between brushed and polished surfaces. Collectors heavily penalise it: a polished Submariner can lose 15 to 30% of its value compared to an unpolished piece with the same natural wear scratches. A well-executed polish on a modern watch should not impact the watch's value.
The traps to avoid when reading a valuation
The trap of the lowest price: On Chrono24, some sellers display very low prices to attract clicks — the watch is either without papers, in poor condition, or a counterfeit. Never base your market reference on the lowest price.
The trap of sentimental value: A seller who tells you that their watch "is worth more" because they bought it new 10 years ago, because it belonged to someone famous, or because it has a particular story — that’s their business, not the market value. Sentimental value does not exist in watch pricing except for pieces of exceptional and documented rarity.
The trap of outdated pricing: The luxury watch market has experienced significant fluctuations since 2020: a spectacular rise during Covid, a correction in 2022-2023, and stabilisation since. A price read 18 months ago can be significantly different from the current price — always check with recent data.
How does Répétition help you never overpay?
At Répétition, we track market prices in real-time for each reference we offer. Before each sale, we set the price based on the current data from Chrono24 and WatchCharts — not based on a "memory" price or an old valuation. This is our commitment to transparency towards our clients in Metz, the Grand Est, and Luxembourg.
If you wish to have a watch you own appraised or check if a price you have been offered is consistent with the market, contact us — we can provide you with a free and no-obligation opinion.
The prices displayed on our site are the actual market prices relative to the condition of the watches. The prices shown on platforms are inflated due to their fees.